As someone who frequently writes about skincare, I spend a lot of time compiling lists of the best products. Whether it’s trialling the best Korean skincare product launches or road-testing LED masks, a big part of my job is sifting through the wide selection that’s out there.
And when it comes to acne treatments – or adult acne products in particular – I can safely say the noise has never been louder. From skin supplements to entire blemish-busting systems, the industry is saturated. It’s little wonder many of us are left overwhelmed when we’re searching for the best adult acne treatments and products to try.
I’ve suffered with acne since my early teens when – like many of us – the cause was primarily an oily T-zone and raging puberty hormones, likely made worse by scrubbing my skin with harsh facial exfoliators. As I got older, teenage spots gave way to moderate cystic acne around my jawline and neck, which is now known to be a symptom of a much deeper hormonal issue.
But prior to understanding this, when I say I have tried everything to rid myself of spots, I really mean it: antibiotics, the pill, prescription benzoyl peroxide, Roaccutane. Then there were the treatments; weekly microdermabrasion, acid peels, extraction facials, light therapy. None of it was really sustainable though, and my breakouts always came back with a vengeance.
So, what did work? Well, decades on, my skin is still very much a work in progress and I’m still prone to breakouts – except now, as I approach 40, I have more than a few fine lines to contend with too.
The holy grail for me has been a combination of understanding how to naturally balance my hormones with diet, supplements and (ahem) stress management, incorporating in-clinic treatments (when I can), and a solid skincare routine which, through much trial and error, includes many of the products below. Some of these products are designed with older skin in mind and plenty, I’m sure, will surprise you.
What Causes Adult Acne?
Adult acne is defined as acne occurring after the age of 25 but the triggers remain elusive. Stress, hormones and genetics are known to play a role, however.
Excess sebum, dead skin and bacteria combined with an overproduction of keratin at the opening of the hair follicle can lead to blockages or comedones (otherwise known as blackheads or whiteheads, depending on whether they’re open or closed). This congestion then becomes the ideal environment for the colonisation of bacteria, which triggers those red, angry-looking pustules.
But how do we rid ourselves of acne? Traditional topical treatments targeted at those with typically oily skin rely on ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and retinoic acids, but these can be harsh and often drying on ageing skin.
I found sticking to a more pared-back skincare routine that includes classic complexion-clearer salicylic acid and ingredients such as azelaic acid, niacinamide and centella (that work to calm inflammation and clarify) worked for me. These ingredients mean that wrinkle-busting regimes won’t be compromised either. Team that with a healthy balanced diet that comprises mostly whole foods and anti-inflammatory fish oils, and things will start to look a whole lot clearer.
The most important to thing to note is that while these products have worked for me, as with anything skincare-related, there really is no one-size-fits-all, and they’re certainly not going to rid you of acne overnight. If there is one thing I’ve learnt, it’s that results come with consistency. Combine with professional treatments when you can, continue with a regime that you know works for you, and you’ll soon reap the benefits. It can be tempting to get lured in by buzzy marketing and the promise of quick fixes splashed across the front of products, but long-term results will come with patience.
How to Treat Adult Acne Effectively
Treating adult acne often requires a combination of targeted skincare, lifestyle changes and consistency. The most effective adult acne treatments focus on unclogging pores, reducing inflammation and balancing oil production without stripping the skin.
Ingredients like salicylic acid, retinol and azelaic acid can help clear congestion and prevent breakouts, while calming ingredients such as niacinamide and centella work to soothe irritation. Managing stress, supporting hormonal balance and maintaining a simple, consistent routine can also play a key role in improving skin over time.
The Best Adult Acne Treatments and Products That Actually Work
Best Oil Cleanser for Acne – Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Moisture Deep Cleansing Oil
Cleansing with oil on acne-prone skin may feel counterproductive, but like attracts like, and using an oil for your first cleanse in the evening is a great way to rid your pores of SPF, makeup and pollution. Always apply to dry skin and take the time to really massage it in, focusing on any areas of congestion. Don’t forget to add a drop of water and emulsify for around 10 seconds before rinsing. I can’t get enough of this one from Korean label Haruharu Wonder – it leaves my skin feeling noticeably softer after use.
Best Foaming Acne Cleanser – Curél Foaming Facial Wash
While many foaming face washes can feel stripping, this frothy delight is really gentle and protective on the skin. Like most cleansing foams, it’s not designed to break down make-up though, so use this in the mornings or as your second cleanse in the evening.
Best Gel Cleanser for Acne – Tropic Hydrating Cleanser Refreshing Facial Gelée
My make-up glides on whenever I use this divine hydrating cleanser from Tropic. The lightweight gel contains hydration powerhouse hyaluronic acid, vitamin-rich cucamelon and calming aloe vera juice, which makes it perfect for oily, combination or inflamed complexions. It’s my go-to for a morning or second evening cleanse.
Best Toner for Acne-Prone Skin - Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Toner
It’s true that many toners in the past didn’t do an awful lot, and I’ve previously found them to be quite drying. But some – like this cult toner from Paula’s Choice – are packed with skincare benefits. Think of it as a lightweight first step in treating your skin after cleansing, maximising the benefits of your serum or moisturiser. It helps slough off dead skin cells without irritation while reducing the appearance of blackheads. Plus, it’s gentle enough to use every day.
Best Targeted Acne Treatment Serum – Dr Somji Anti-Blemish Concentrate
Anything that comes out of the Dr Somji clinic gets a firm ‘yes’ from me and this targeted blemish treatment is a bathroom shelf staple. The blend of azelaic acid, salicylic, lactic acid, bakuchiol and niacinamide tackles areas of congestion and fine lines while boosting the epidermal barrier function.
Best Affordable Acne Treatment Serum – The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Pricewise, it really doesn’t get better than this. Niacinamide and zinc PCA – known to target uneven texture and excess oil while reducing the appearance of pores – are the stars of the show, bolstering the skin’s barrier and brightness while reducing breakouts. Like a lot of The Ordinary’s serums, it feels a little tacky upon application, but it really works (just slather your moisturiser on top and you’ll be none the wiser).
Best Supplement for Acne – Complete By Dr SCS Clarify System
The beauty world is saturated with supplements, from collagen powders and brightening potions to pills that promise to clear your breakouts. But not all are created equal, so don’t just order the first that you see with the words ‘skin’ or ‘beauty’ on the packaging.
Nothing I’ve tried (and I have tried a lot) has ever come close to the Clarify System from Dr Sonal Chavda-Sitaram which takes an inside-and-out approach to skincare with its targeted supplement and topical serum. The daily capsule contains a host of skin- and hormone-supporting ingredients, including a 6-strain probiotic complex alongside vitamin C, zinc citrate and milk thistle extract, while the serum comprises 10% azelaic acid, salicylic acid, niacinamide and lactobacillus ferment lysate to restore the skin’s natural balance and microbiome health. I can’t wax lyrical enough about how fewer breakouts I’ve had in the five months I’ve been taking this – and those that do appear heal so much quicker than before. Right now, it’s the only serum and supplement I use in my routine.
Best Moisturiser for Acne – Q+A Zinc PCA Daily Moisturiser
If there’s one thing I’ve learned in my quest for good skin, it’s that you don’t need to spend a lot on your moisturiser – you’re better off spending that money on a serum (they have much smaller molecules, allowing the nutrients and actives to penetrate right down to the epidermis). If you want a moisturiser that feels like a rich cream, but which doesn’t clog pores, this budget-friendly moisturiser from Q+A is soothing, softening and absorbs in a flash.
Best Gel Moisturiser for Acne – Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturiser
Gel moisturisers are often targeted at those prone to acne because the non-greasy formulas are less prone to clogging pores, but I’ve frequently found them to be on the sticky side and not quite hydrating enough for me. That was until I came across this one from Aveeno. This is a really good value moisturiser that stands up well against some of the more expensive brands out there. It leaves skin feeling baby soft but not heavy.
Best Acne Treatment Serum – Allies of Skin Promise Keeper Nightly Blemish Treatment
OK, it’s pricey, but if I’m going to splurge on skincare, Allies of Skin would be my go-brand every single time because the formulas really work. Think of this as a great grown-up solution to address really stubborn breakouts as well as the early effects of ageing. Formulated with 2% dioic acid to help control sebum, plus niacinamide, antibacterial Manuka honey UMF16 and soothing centella extract, it’s a multitasker that gives your skin the best chance of repair.
Overnight treatments like this are the most effective way to boost your complexion’s ability to heal and correct itself because it’s the only time your skin isn’t being bombarded with external factors like sunlight and pollution. This is amazing for hormonal breakouts (goodbye PMS face!).
Best SPF for Acne – La Roche-Posay UVMUNE Anthelios 400 Invisible Fluid SPF 50+
My bathroom shelves are truly #blessed when it comes to the latest SPFs, but the one I’m buying on repeat is this one from La Roche-Posay. The lightweight fluid disappears on the skin but leaves it feeling hydrated and glowing. There have been numerous iterations over the years (yes, the love affair has been that long) but it’s only gotten better. While mineral-based SPFs are often recommended for acne-prone skin because they contain zinc, I’ll forever extol the benefits of this one to anyone who will listen.
Best Professional Acne Facial Treatment – Advanced Acne Facial at MG Skincare
I’ve been lucky enough to experience a lot of professional beauty treatments in my job but there are only a select few I would pay to revisit and a bespoke facial by Manuel Guerra is one of my favourite routes to fresh, clearer-looking skin.
From his peaceful and welcoming MG Skincare clinic, on a quiet street near Tower Bridge, his most advanced acne facial includes a deep cleanse with extractions alongside a fruit acid peel, a serum cocktail of antioxidants and optional micro needling. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but it gets results and after just three treatments my skin was transformed. Expect to look your dewy best a couple of days later, and results to last weeks. Months after a treatment with Manuel I still reap the benefits with clear, glowing skin.
Best Skincare Book to Read – The Happy Skin Solution by Fiona Lawson
A curveball – but your skin is a mirror of your overall health, so it makes no sense to splurge on the very best creams and serums without focusing on what you’re putting into your body. This book, written by registered nutritional therapist Fiona Lawson, was recommended to me by a facialist who as well as performing the most incredible treatments also takes holistic approach to skin health – and it completely changed the way I thought about my skin.
